Other blades - marble, glass etc

Marble

Our most popular marble blade is a good quality blade, as shown on the right. Silencing slots cut into core (not visible in photo). "P" slots for cooling 30mm/1" centre $195 each incl GST

This Husqvarna Elite series blade has a good performance/price ratio thanks to the high performance output in relation to the tool investment. Continuous rim blade geometry to provide a high-quality cut with no chipping of the cutting edges. Best on ceramic floor tiles, marble and granite. Available in: 350mm, ex stock at $195 each

Glass

Glass is hard to cut because of:

• the different qualities of glass (bottle glass versus high quality ornament glass)
• different, and often awkward, shapes
• different thicknesses
• different standards required.

If you a just cutting bottles, a glass cutter from Bunnings offers good, inexpensive results. For more advanced users, a glass bottle kit purchase online features bottle holders that allow the bottle to rotate whilst being cut.

If you have more complex glass cutting requirements, consider a saw with a specific blade:

1. Use a specific glass blade that is high quality and is made with a very fine and uniform diamond grain.
The 0.3mm thick lapidary blades (which we do not sell) give the best result.

2. Thoroughly clean the surface on which the glass tile or glass mosaic will be placed.
Even a small piece of glass or dirt might be enough to prevent the diamond blade from operating correctly.
This is especially if you use a tile cutter with a fixed blade that you slide the tiles on a sliding tray.
The tray surface can be easily cleaned with plain water.

3. Dress the blade before cutting: Unless brand new, many diamond blades are not ready to cut glass.
It is easy to dress the cutting edge by using a UDT dressing stone ( see more here). 
Do not use concrete blocks to sharpen your blades this could damage the blade irreparably.
A well dressed blade will increase the speed of cut and will reduce cutting vibrations considerably.

4. Use plenty of water when cutting glass: If you have a tile cutter with the ability to regulate the water flow that goes on to the blade, make sure that the flow is adjusted to the maximum. Overheated glass tends to crack and chip easily so use a lot of water to cool down both the diamond blade and the glass.

5. Make sure that the cutting process is not too slow If the glass blade you are using is of high quality, it will be possible to cut glass fairly quickly, thus reducing both the vibration and the risk of chipping.
If you have a glass blade of medium-low quality, the only thing that can be suggested is the use of a lot of water although the result still won't be perfect.

Once you have completed the cut, don't forget that you are dealing with glass and handle it with great care, paying special attention to the corners, which are particularly fragile and can be sharp.

 Thin lapidary blades (0.3mm) give the best result on bottles and small pieces of glass, but we do not sell them.

Alternatively, consider these two blades that will cut glass with varying results (not as fine as lapidary blades):
Vacuum brazed blades  - In our 14"/350mm size, the fine grit gives a slower cut, but leaves a better finish. This silver coloured core has no gullets so the rim is continuous. It has been used by TAFE's for glass cutting.
See here.
Electroplated blades will also cut glass, and are popular in smaller sizes.
See here.

Clean Cut Blades
	12"/300mm 16"/400mm	These blades feature clean cutting and reinforcement in the hub to stop the blade flexing. The soft bond means these blades can cut hard products without chipping. 2.7mm thick Best on alumina tile only (little or no rubber). Also ideal on porcelain pavers, Deuropave , DEKTON, Hard Granite, Quartzite, Glass etc 12"/300mm 50mm cutting depth 16"/400mm 100mm cutting depth

Carbon Fibre

Carbon fiber is most commonly encountered on bicycles. Most riders and bike shops cut carbon fibre with hack saws, as this is easy enough to do. High speed cutting and grinding of CF is extremely hazardous, and a specialist job, so ensure the necessary safety precautions are adhered to:
1. The dust created when high speed cutting or grinding CF is as hazardous as asbestos, i.e. highly dangerous.
Ensure you take precaution to not breath in the dust or fibres and ensure all dust/fibres are contained and captured. Consider cutting wet, if your saw will allow it. 
2. CF splinters are really difficult to remove and can require surgery to remove all traces.

A standard abrasive metal cutting wheel works, but it will wear out quickly.
A diamond blade will last much longer.
You can use either our:
Vacuum brazed range – see here -https://www.udt.com.au/view/our-diamond-blades/vacuum-brazed-diamond-blades
Electroplated range – another option. See here - https://www.udt.com.au/view/our-diamond-blades/electroplated-blades

Re feed rate - slower is always better, but you will work out how fast you can go without reducing the quality of the cut.
You can further improve the cut by simply wrapping a layer or two of ordinary masking tape around the cutting area.
Use a water mist for cooling and dust control, but keep water away from electrics.

Silica dust - when workers cut, crush, drill, polish, saw or grind products that contain silica, particles are created, which are one-hundredth of the size of a grain of sand. These can get  stuck deep in the lungs. 
Ensure precautions to limit exposure to dust are in place.
See the WA government's info on silica dust here.

Prices correct as of 1/2/24 but subject to change.

Disclaimer: the information on this website is provided in good faith and believed to be reliable and accurate at this time.
However, the information is provided on the basis that the reader will be solely responsible for assessing the information and its veracity and usefulness. UDT shall in no way be liable, in negligence or howsoever, for any loss sustained or incurred by anyone relying on the information, even if such information is or turns out to be wrong, incomplete, out-of-date or misleading.